Gosh! A whole forty days have passed since my last post. It is highly likely that this will be my last one too, at least for awhile. I am due to leave Mali on Saturday after nearly three months in this wonderful country. The plan is to return, but more on that later. So, what have I been up to? Well, mainly working, hanging out in the city and contracting malaria. All part and parcel of life here. To date, the political situation has died down somewhat following all the violence that had taken place just before my last post. That is not to say that it has disappeared entirely, unfortunately there have been further casualties amongst both UN peacekeepers and NGO workers, due to Improvised Explosive Devices, or I.E.Ds as they are commonly known. A ceasefire was brokered following the violence, with mediation by the President of Mauritania, however a lasting settlement still seems a long way off. The mandate of MINUSMA was renewed last week for a further year, by a unanimous vote in the Security Council. There appears to be no change in troop levels or civilian staffing levels.
The big debate taking place here is the positioning of the headquarters. As I am sure you may be aware, we are currently house in a former luxury hotel, which brings all sorts of quirky dynamics to the working environment. Apparently, however, the Government of Mali would like us to vacate it and move to the North, to be closer to the centre of need. This would bring an abrupt end to comfortable life style that is currently being enjoyed by MINUSMA staff here. Moving to somewhere like Gao would make for an entirely different work environment, and a lot less pleasant. People would be housed in a super camp. The region is much hotter and arid, movement would be much more restricted, communications would be more problematic. The organization would compensate staff for this change in work environment through danger pay and four-weekly rest and recuperation rotation. That said I think most people would still opt for the comfortable surroundings of Bamako over a little extra money in their pockets.
For me personally, I am loving it here. The only downside has been health issues. I have had a couple of nasty stomach upsets and then this week was a toughie. By Monday, I had been feeling off-colour since the previous Friday morning. I took myself to the local clinic and it was there that a blood test showed I had picked up malaria. I started a three-day medication course straight away. On top of this I had a stomach infection and by Thursday had picked up a viral throat infection (because I was generally run down). Needless to say, Wednesday and Thursday I felt pretty awful. Given that I was not sure what was going on, I did begin to get nervous when the cough set in and the fever started. However, by Friday I had the all clear after a further blood test and today, despite a hangover from yet another party, at yet another expat's villa, I feel great.
I sincerely hope to return here in September so that I can continue with the capacity building in the office, working on public information, and learning French. We are optimistic that the contract will come through and if I do return, I feel I will be much better prepared this time. I have already made a list of all the things I want to carry from the USA and the UK. Downloading films is also high on the agenda! I am also looking for an online course in business administration or HR, I would like to get some more qualifications under my belt.
So it is goodbye for now. Hope to see you all soon, either in New York, the U.K., or back in Bamako.
J.
Sunday, 6 July 2014
Tuesday, 27 May 2014
Day 41
Bread and cheese, it has been too long! I have been savouring the simple things in life, and possibly making new discoveries, i.e. bread with boursin or nutella! I remember someone saying prior to my departure that you will always find good bread in ex-French colonies. How right they were! If only I could find this yummy fresh bread in Brooklyn without having to go to a farmer's market and part with $6! It feels like groundhog day, I am just recovering from another bout of an upset stomach, this time I deployed an army, re-hydration salts, Imodium, coca cola and charcoal tablets. Needless to say I am feeling much better today. It is amazing how effectively your body reacts, it has just told me to sleep, and sleep some more.
There is only so much to tell from the last 10 days. The one piece of drama we had occurred last week, when the hotel headquarters were surrounded by angry protestors. In what felt like typical British fashion, we sat by the pool and drank coffee and mango juice. I had been on my three-day SSAFE training where we learn how to deal with hostage taking, as well as reacting to hostile crowds and violent demonstrations. I was quite tempted to try and put my training into action! In the end, security was quick to mobilise and the only casualty was the MINUSMA name plate outside, which was torn down. On a more serious note though, the situation in the North, in particular the town of Kidal, is deteriorating. These demonstrations were prompted by the visit of the Prime Minister to Kidal. He had had to be swiftly evacuated when rebel members of the MNLA launched an offensive and took over the Governor's building. In the ensuing violence, hostages were taken, civilians were sadly executed, and government soldiers were killed. The MNLA, or the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Movement_for_the_Liberation_of_Azawad), is fighting for the formation of an independent North and to breakaway entirely from Southern Mali. I understand that the protests were directed at MINUSMA because it is thought that the mission could have prevented this violence. This may indeed be fair enough, however, I also understand that while MINUSMA has been promised various resources, only a proportion of these have materalised. I believe somewhere in the region of 50%. On top of this, there is the Security Council mandate, which is limited in its scope and does not allow for more offensive operations, as we have seen in the Democratic Republic of Congo. On the theme of the DRC, unmanned surveillance drones are now being used by the UN to monitor conditions on the ground, and yes, before you ask, they are also painted white and emblazoned with "UN"! Now there is talk of these drones coming to Mali.
Aside from the continued stomach upset, all is well. I am still on my own in my large three-bedroom apartment. I should get a roommate, but it is nice having the place to myself. People come and go, Dan is now in Gao doing his thing but now Kai has arrived from New York and we have been hanging out. He went to see a more dated villa at the weekend, on the market for just $730 a month, including a large garden and a pool. Already I have visions of a garden like that in Out of Africa, or those featured in the biography I read awhile ago about a British ex-pat in Kenya, called "The Bolter". He is also mentioned a large veranda to sit out on. It sounded like the perfect place for a G & T or a campari and orange!
There is only so much to tell from the last 10 days. The one piece of drama we had occurred last week, when the hotel headquarters were surrounded by angry protestors. In what felt like typical British fashion, we sat by the pool and drank coffee and mango juice. I had been on my three-day SSAFE training where we learn how to deal with hostage taking, as well as reacting to hostile crowds and violent demonstrations. I was quite tempted to try and put my training into action! In the end, security was quick to mobilise and the only casualty was the MINUSMA name plate outside, which was torn down. On a more serious note though, the situation in the North, in particular the town of Kidal, is deteriorating. These demonstrations were prompted by the visit of the Prime Minister to Kidal. He had had to be swiftly evacuated when rebel members of the MNLA launched an offensive and took over the Governor's building. In the ensuing violence, hostages were taken, civilians were sadly executed, and government soldiers were killed. The MNLA, or the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Movement_for_the_Liberation_of_Azawad), is fighting for the formation of an independent North and to breakaway entirely from Southern Mali. I understand that the protests were directed at MINUSMA because it is thought that the mission could have prevented this violence. This may indeed be fair enough, however, I also understand that while MINUSMA has been promised various resources, only a proportion of these have materalised. I believe somewhere in the region of 50%. On top of this, there is the Security Council mandate, which is limited in its scope and does not allow for more offensive operations, as we have seen in the Democratic Republic of Congo. On the theme of the DRC, unmanned surveillance drones are now being used by the UN to monitor conditions on the ground, and yes, before you ask, they are also painted white and emblazoned with "UN"! Now there is talk of these drones coming to Mali.
Aside from the continued stomach upset, all is well. I am still on my own in my large three-bedroom apartment. I should get a roommate, but it is nice having the place to myself. People come and go, Dan is now in Gao doing his thing but now Kai has arrived from New York and we have been hanging out. He went to see a more dated villa at the weekend, on the market for just $730 a month, including a large garden and a pool. Already I have visions of a garden like that in Out of Africa, or those featured in the biography I read awhile ago about a British ex-pat in Kenya, called "The Bolter". He is also mentioned a large veranda to sit out on. It sounded like the perfect place for a G & T or a campari and orange!
Saturday, 17 May 2014
Day 31
Gosh, it has been a while since I last wrote. I am sat in bed at the apartment with no address, with my first bout of what is know as traveller's diarrhea. It is 2:20am and I am up and awake given that I have slept much of the day. I have actually been vaccinated against such incidences, but it does not feel like it right now! Everything got cancelled today, including my first Malian personal training session and my French class. I have had very limited access to the internet since moving into this new place, so I am afraid this accounts for my reduction in communication. Madame Khoule (the owner) keeps promising to find a solution, but here we are. I think I may opt for a dongle and go it alone. What do I need to tell you. Yes, two weeks have passed and unsurprisingly I have settled into life here quite comfortably. So much so that I have been running around networking and making enquiries as to how I might stay on here for longer. I just know that 3 months is not going to be long enough and it will be so useful to continue the French speaking effort. It is immersion to a degree because I am forced to speak it everyday, particularly outside of the office, however, several of my immediate colleagues also speak limited English so I must converse with them in French.
Abdullah picks me up each morning to take me to work, for which I pay 2,000 CFA ($4) for the privilege and then I travel home in a variety of ways. Right now, I am actually alone in the three-bedroom apartment. Felipe had to return home to Columbia unexpectedly and Dan has left for the region of Gao for four weeks. I realised how much I was going to miss Dan when I worked out that we had eaten together for almost every evening since he arrived. Fredrik, a big burly Viking, as he continues to refer to himself, is going to come and look at the spare room tomorrow. For now, I am going to enjoy the weekend on my own. It is amazing how quickly you get used to a place, the weather, the food. As far as a first peacekeeping mission goes, I have had it easy. In contrast Dan text me from Gao earlier and said there is only one place to eat, no internet and they were expecting a sand storm. This does not seem imaginable in the leafy bustling streets of Bamako. Right now it is raining quite hard and it is only a matter of time before the rainy season takes hold. I am expecting the road outside to turn into a mudslide and my must prepare to buy a pair of wellingtons. The disparity between rich and poor continues. We live in a very nice apartment block that would not look out of place in the Costa del Sol, however, we wake up in the morning and there are children across the road engaged in light manual labour and many of the to-be-constructed buildings are temporary homes for people. The other week I was very kindly invited to see a friend of a friend. He showed me around his neighbourhood, he introduced me to a hundred people, including his parents, and then we drank very sweet tea. What amused me was that I looked into a courtyard and saw many sheep and chickens walking around. No unusual sight in the Cornish countryside but seemed exotic in the centre of Bamako. Beydi was so kind, inviting me in for dinner with his wife. We sat around a table and ate out of the same plate, I mean why waste crockery. He then dropped me off before going for drinks with the Prime Minister. I asked him if he could ask the PM if he could do something about our power outages. On that note, however, we have a fine generator now installed. The AC toils on.
I had my first expat party, oh it was fun. The theme was angels and demons. Some of you saw the pictures, my costume ended up resembling the Queen which is entirely appropriate. An angel in my eyes anyway. The music was an excellent eclectic mix of tunes from the eighties and nineties. It was a little strange being in the office and not being in the office. Everyone was there that I meet on daily basis, but most were drinking and dancing (and smoking). Not something you will see very often in UNHQ. I love the free smoking rules, people light up in their office, in the bar, in the restaurant. It is like old times! Changing topic, it is interesting how expats are seen so unashamedly as a source of income. Everywhere you go, you are asked for money. When I arrived at the supermarket last night my taxi was surrounded by people, asking for money, or trying to sell me something. It gives you almost a taste celebrity, which is some small way is exciting! Much as I am an egotist, I must keep a eye on these things and remind myself to be humble. All the more difficult when you have spent five years in a city where whatever you want is available at anytime of the day, for any price.
There we are I must try and sleep.
Abdullah picks me up each morning to take me to work, for which I pay 2,000 CFA ($4) for the privilege and then I travel home in a variety of ways. Right now, I am actually alone in the three-bedroom apartment. Felipe had to return home to Columbia unexpectedly and Dan has left for the region of Gao for four weeks. I realised how much I was going to miss Dan when I worked out that we had eaten together for almost every evening since he arrived. Fredrik, a big burly Viking, as he continues to refer to himself, is going to come and look at the spare room tomorrow. For now, I am going to enjoy the weekend on my own. It is amazing how quickly you get used to a place, the weather, the food. As far as a first peacekeeping mission goes, I have had it easy. In contrast Dan text me from Gao earlier and said there is only one place to eat, no internet and they were expecting a sand storm. This does not seem imaginable in the leafy bustling streets of Bamako. Right now it is raining quite hard and it is only a matter of time before the rainy season takes hold. I am expecting the road outside to turn into a mudslide and my must prepare to buy a pair of wellingtons. The disparity between rich and poor continues. We live in a very nice apartment block that would not look out of place in the Costa del Sol, however, we wake up in the morning and there are children across the road engaged in light manual labour and many of the to-be-constructed buildings are temporary homes for people. The other week I was very kindly invited to see a friend of a friend. He showed me around his neighbourhood, he introduced me to a hundred people, including his parents, and then we drank very sweet tea. What amused me was that I looked into a courtyard and saw many sheep and chickens walking around. No unusual sight in the Cornish countryside but seemed exotic in the centre of Bamako. Beydi was so kind, inviting me in for dinner with his wife. We sat around a table and ate out of the same plate, I mean why waste crockery. He then dropped me off before going for drinks with the Prime Minister. I asked him if he could ask the PM if he could do something about our power outages. On that note, however, we have a fine generator now installed. The AC toils on.
I had my first expat party, oh it was fun. The theme was angels and demons. Some of you saw the pictures, my costume ended up resembling the Queen which is entirely appropriate. An angel in my eyes anyway. The music was an excellent eclectic mix of tunes from the eighties and nineties. It was a little strange being in the office and not being in the office. Everyone was there that I meet on daily basis, but most were drinking and dancing (and smoking). Not something you will see very often in UNHQ. I love the free smoking rules, people light up in their office, in the bar, in the restaurant. It is like old times! Changing topic, it is interesting how expats are seen so unashamedly as a source of income. Everywhere you go, you are asked for money. When I arrived at the supermarket last night my taxi was surrounded by people, asking for money, or trying to sell me something. It gives you almost a taste celebrity, which is some small way is exciting! Much as I am an egotist, I must keep a eye on these things and remind myself to be humble. All the more difficult when you have spent five years in a city where whatever you want is available at anytime of the day, for any price.
There we are I must try and sleep.
Thursday, 1 May 2014
Day 15
It is amazing to think that I have been here two weeks already, the time is literally flying. While touching wood, much to my surprise I am yet to come down, or really be affected, by the food and water here. This will come as a surprise to many. It may have something to do with the constant consumption of 1.5 bottles of spring water, thought apparently the tap water is okay, as well as most of my meal being taken in hotels. I have to say, brochettes of beef and tuna fish sandwiches are getting a little tiring but on the whole the food quality is good. So far we have eaten out in a Thai, Lebanese and Ethiopian restaurant. We are all keen to try the local pizzeria though, Guidos. Sunday afternoon was spent at the Grande Marche, having been entirely swamped by would-be guides, Saturday afternoon involved a 5km walk in the countryside during which I must have sweated out all of the water that I had drunk that day. Also, with the combination of the sun and taking Doxicycline, my cheeks were far redder than normal. It did not add up to a pretty sight! Well, the donkey did not seem to be impressed.
Yesterday was the first real day of work, having finished the 2.5 day induction course fall new starters. So many people are arriving that the training centre is completely overwhelmed. The air conditioner in the room struggled to keep the temperature below 30c. That said, it could have been a lot worse and the staff are really trying. It was amazing to hear that the UN has a whole portal of online accredited courses for staff to take that are completely free. On top of this there are over 30,000 books that can be downloaded. This really was music to my ears. We heard about the background to the conflict in the North, as well as the situation at present. The South of the country is largely at peace and the population centres in the North are fairly secure. That said, it is not recommend to land on Kidal's air strip as it is literally just desert. An improvised explosive device also detonated just metres from the air strip. Luckily no one was injured. There was discussion on international humanitarian law, how the Geneva Conventions have been adapted to cater for internal armed conflicts. Fascinating to know that they apply everywhere, regardless of whether a state is a signatory or not.
So, for the first time I will be moving to an apartment without an address! The road outside literally has no name and so we have to describe it as a block of flats close to the roundabout with the monument of the candle in its centre. Very random. It was a tussle with security to let me move out of our very well protected hotel. We will miss the Benin Peacekeepers walking around in their blue helmets and automatic weapons. I won't miss having my I.D. checked everytime we get home and our bags scanned through x-ray machines! The compromise was that we have to have razor wire placed all around the perimeter wall, extra bolts placed on the main bedroom door so it can act as a safe room, and 24-hour security guards outside! Don't be alarmed, this is much more than most have, unfortunately it was unavoidable if I wanted to be reimbursed for my rent.
Today is Labour Day in Mali, so happy that. See you all soon x.
Yesterday was the first real day of work, having finished the 2.5 day induction course fall new starters. So many people are arriving that the training centre is completely overwhelmed. The air conditioner in the room struggled to keep the temperature below 30c. That said, it could have been a lot worse and the staff are really trying. It was amazing to hear that the UN has a whole portal of online accredited courses for staff to take that are completely free. On top of this there are over 30,000 books that can be downloaded. This really was music to my ears. We heard about the background to the conflict in the North, as well as the situation at present. The South of the country is largely at peace and the population centres in the North are fairly secure. That said, it is not recommend to land on Kidal's air strip as it is literally just desert. An improvised explosive device also detonated just metres from the air strip. Luckily no one was injured. There was discussion on international humanitarian law, how the Geneva Conventions have been adapted to cater for internal armed conflicts. Fascinating to know that they apply everywhere, regardless of whether a state is a signatory or not.
So, for the first time I will be moving to an apartment without an address! The road outside literally has no name and so we have to describe it as a block of flats close to the roundabout with the monument of the candle in its centre. Very random. It was a tussle with security to let me move out of our very well protected hotel. We will miss the Benin Peacekeepers walking around in their blue helmets and automatic weapons. I won't miss having my I.D. checked everytime we get home and our bags scanned through x-ray machines! The compromise was that we have to have razor wire placed all around the perimeter wall, extra bolts placed on the main bedroom door so it can act as a safe room, and 24-hour security guards outside! Don't be alarmed, this is much more than most have, unfortunately it was unavoidable if I wanted to be reimbursed for my rent.
Today is Labour Day in Mali, so happy that. See you all soon x.
Saturday, 26 April 2014
Day 10
Saturday has arrived, and yes it is hot and sunny again. Not a cloud in the sky and a high of 42c. My first whole week in Mali is behind me and already I have got to grips with a few things, my PC is finally installed, and I have begun to make friends, which unsurprisingly in this context, is not difficult. Last night we went to a really great Ethiopian restaurant called Abissinia where I enjoyed my first glass of wine since I arrived and also ate with my hands for the first time, for an entire meal. Some food items were more challenging than others. Afterwards we went into the neighbouring bar called Appaloosa, which was quite a sight. The bar has attempted to recreate an American wild west saloon with limited success, needless to say it is very popular and the drinks menu is very extensive. Also of interest were the several buxom Ukrainian girls lined up behind the bar (now celebrating their new Russian identity), doing little work. It remains to be seen as to the exact circumstances surrounding their presence in Mali.
It was great to hang out with new friends and already I am coming into contact with an intriguing bunch of individuals. One girl I spoke to had worked for the UN for 11 years or so, in many contexts, and is now a United Nations Volunteer (UNV) here in Bamako. I was further surprised to find out that my colleague, who is our Public Relations Officer, is also a UNV and in fact has no background in communications at all! It explained why she was asking me for ideas on public information outreach activities in the remote Northern regions. Please drop me a line if you have any ideas yourselves!
Sat in Appaloosa last night I was reminded again of the oddities of expat life. People had warned me that the peacekeeping mission context creates a bit of bubble and looking around at some of the more "established" characters at the table, and listening to their stories, showed that it is clearly easy to get swept up by being the "privileged inhabitants" of an otherwise impoverished city and country. There was talk of the bars and nightclubs to hang out in, where to be seen, places where you can pick up a decent cocktail for $7. This amounts to more than some Malians will earn in three days.
A few things stood out for me during the day. As we left in the morning there had been an accident involving a car and a motorcyclist. Motorcycles are a favourite for getting around here in Bamako, the streets are clogged with with bikes at many points during the day. However, no one seems to wear helmets and this guy was laying flat out on the tarmac in the recovery position. It was unclear how seriously he was injured but it made me pretty determined not to drive here myself. I would be so worried about hitting someone. Many women will carry a young child on either side of them, again with no head protection at all. The amount of garbage on the street is also something you become very aware of and it make senses when you witness how people just throw stuff to the ground. I watched one lady come out of a shop yesterday and toss the can she was drinking from into the street. The taxi driver, who eventually got me to the restaurant last night, just tossed the drink container he was drinking from out of the window when he was finished. After a while maybe I will be doing the same! When I asked the office cleaner the other day about recycling she looked at me like an alien, she then went and fetched another colleague of hers who spoke more English. Needless to say, we did not get very far.
Today has in store a possible trip outside of the city, otherwise I think I should try the hotel pool in case I succeed in moving to outside accommodation sometime this week. Fingers crossed!
It was great to hang out with new friends and already I am coming into contact with an intriguing bunch of individuals. One girl I spoke to had worked for the UN for 11 years or so, in many contexts, and is now a United Nations Volunteer (UNV) here in Bamako. I was further surprised to find out that my colleague, who is our Public Relations Officer, is also a UNV and in fact has no background in communications at all! It explained why she was asking me for ideas on public information outreach activities in the remote Northern regions. Please drop me a line if you have any ideas yourselves!
Sat in Appaloosa last night I was reminded again of the oddities of expat life. People had warned me that the peacekeeping mission context creates a bit of bubble and looking around at some of the more "established" characters at the table, and listening to their stories, showed that it is clearly easy to get swept up by being the "privileged inhabitants" of an otherwise impoverished city and country. There was talk of the bars and nightclubs to hang out in, where to be seen, places where you can pick up a decent cocktail for $7. This amounts to more than some Malians will earn in three days.
A few things stood out for me during the day. As we left in the morning there had been an accident involving a car and a motorcyclist. Motorcycles are a favourite for getting around here in Bamako, the streets are clogged with with bikes at many points during the day. However, no one seems to wear helmets and this guy was laying flat out on the tarmac in the recovery position. It was unclear how seriously he was injured but it made me pretty determined not to drive here myself. I would be so worried about hitting someone. Many women will carry a young child on either side of them, again with no head protection at all. The amount of garbage on the street is also something you become very aware of and it make senses when you witness how people just throw stuff to the ground. I watched one lady come out of a shop yesterday and toss the can she was drinking from into the street. The taxi driver, who eventually got me to the restaurant last night, just tossed the drink container he was drinking from out of the window when he was finished. After a while maybe I will be doing the same! When I asked the office cleaner the other day about recycling she looked at me like an alien, she then went and fetched another colleague of hers who spoke more English. Needless to say, we did not get very far.
Today has in store a possible trip outside of the city, otherwise I think I should try the hotel pool in case I succeed in moving to outside accommodation sometime this week. Fingers crossed!
Thursday, 24 April 2014
Day 7
I have been here in Bamako, Mali, for seven days now. It is great to be back in Africa. I have struggled to explain why, but it just is. Perhaps it is the more laid back pace, the friendliness of the people, the conversations. I come here in a different context to how I have been before. Previously it was about travel and exploration, this time it feels a hybrid of that and of work. I have been given some time to settle in, but I am sure once the work station is up and running (I am keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow), work will pick up. With the high temperatures, it has been 42c (108F) everyday, it is somewhat of a relief to return to air conditioned offices and hotel rooms.
This brings me to the Headquarters and my work. As you may, or may not know, I have come to Mali for what is known as temporary duty, a period of three months where I am released from my responsibilities in New York, my main duty station. The United Nations is here now in the form of the peacekeeping operation, MINUSMA (United Nations Multidimensional Integrated Stabilization Mission). The mission was established a year ago in response to an armed rebellion in the North of the country and a coup d'etat in the capital. This rebellion was subsequently quashed by the intervention of French troops and the UN is here now to maintain peace and hopefully bring more stability to the Northern region. The Headquarters, where I will be based, is housed in a large former hotel, which really makes for an unusual working environment. Yes, we have the usual lifts and corridors and eating areas, but what about the bathroom in each office, room service to your desk and a swimming pool and tennis courts outside. I get the impression Hotel L'Amitie was once grander than it was, though the gloomy and outdated interiors indicate that it was on the descent even before it was commandeered by the UN.
Traveling around the city the small amount that I have, reminds you, however, that Mali is still a very poor country. On the way to the logistics base yesterday to pick up office equipment, we passed through rubbish strewn streets, chickens packed into wired cages on the side of the road and drainage ditches and streams full of garbage. There is an uneasiness about the coexistence of the expat community and the local population that I need to explore more. On the one hand there is the feeling that the presence of the UN creates employment and ideally assists with capacity, but on the other hand there is the fact that prices are pushed up locally and that the UN will not be here permanently. To me, peacekeeping seems much like a business. It starts off small, gradually grows, before plateauing out and eventually folding, as it should.
Anyway, enough for tonight.
J.
This brings me to the Headquarters and my work. As you may, or may not know, I have come to Mali for what is known as temporary duty, a period of three months where I am released from my responsibilities in New York, my main duty station. The United Nations is here now in the form of the peacekeeping operation, MINUSMA (United Nations Multidimensional Integrated Stabilization Mission). The mission was established a year ago in response to an armed rebellion in the North of the country and a coup d'etat in the capital. This rebellion was subsequently quashed by the intervention of French troops and the UN is here now to maintain peace and hopefully bring more stability to the Northern region. The Headquarters, where I will be based, is housed in a large former hotel, which really makes for an unusual working environment. Yes, we have the usual lifts and corridors and eating areas, but what about the bathroom in each office, room service to your desk and a swimming pool and tennis courts outside. I get the impression Hotel L'Amitie was once grander than it was, though the gloomy and outdated interiors indicate that it was on the descent even before it was commandeered by the UN.
Traveling around the city the small amount that I have, reminds you, however, that Mali is still a very poor country. On the way to the logistics base yesterday to pick up office equipment, we passed through rubbish strewn streets, chickens packed into wired cages on the side of the road and drainage ditches and streams full of garbage. There is an uneasiness about the coexistence of the expat community and the local population that I need to explore more. On the one hand there is the feeling that the presence of the UN creates employment and ideally assists with capacity, but on the other hand there is the fact that prices are pushed up locally and that the UN will not be here permanently. To me, peacekeeping seems much like a business. It starts off small, gradually grows, before plateauing out and eventually folding, as it should.
Anyway, enough for tonight.
J.
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