Bread and cheese, it has been too long! I have been savouring the simple things in life, and possibly making new discoveries, i.e. bread with boursin or nutella! I remember someone saying prior to my departure that you will always find good bread in ex-French colonies. How right they were! If only I could find this yummy fresh bread in Brooklyn without having to go to a farmer's market and part with $6! It feels like groundhog day, I am just recovering from another bout of an upset stomach, this time I deployed an army, re-hydration salts, Imodium, coca cola and charcoal tablets. Needless to say I am feeling much better today. It is amazing how effectively your body reacts, it has just told me to sleep, and sleep some more.
There is only so much to tell from the last 10 days. The one piece of drama we had occurred last week, when the hotel headquarters were surrounded by angry protestors. In what felt like typical British fashion, we sat by the pool and drank coffee and mango juice. I had been on my three-day SSAFE training where we learn how to deal with hostage taking, as well as reacting to hostile crowds and violent demonstrations. I was quite tempted to try and put my training into action! In the end, security was quick to mobilise and the only casualty was the MINUSMA name plate outside, which was torn down. On a more serious note though, the situation in the North, in particular the town of Kidal, is deteriorating. These demonstrations were prompted by the visit of the Prime Minister to Kidal. He had had to be swiftly evacuated when rebel members of the MNLA launched an offensive and took over the Governor's building. In the ensuing violence, hostages were taken, civilians were sadly executed, and government soldiers were killed. The MNLA, or the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Movement_for_the_Liberation_of_Azawad), is fighting for the formation of an independent North and to breakaway entirely from Southern Mali. I understand that the protests were directed at MINUSMA because it is thought that the mission could have prevented this violence. This may indeed be fair enough, however, I also understand that while MINUSMA has been promised various resources, only a proportion of these have materalised. I believe somewhere in the region of 50%. On top of this, there is the Security Council mandate, which is limited in its scope and does not allow for more offensive operations, as we have seen in the Democratic Republic of Congo. On the theme of the DRC, unmanned surveillance drones are now being used by the UN to monitor conditions on the ground, and yes, before you ask, they are also painted white and emblazoned with "UN"! Now there is talk of these drones coming to Mali.
Aside from the continued stomach upset, all is well. I am still on my own in my large three-bedroom apartment. I should get a roommate, but it is nice having the place to myself. People come and go, Dan is now in Gao doing his thing but now Kai has arrived from New York and we have been hanging out. He went to see a more dated villa at the weekend, on the market for just $730 a month, including a large garden and a pool. Already I have visions of a garden like that in Out of Africa, or those featured in the biography I read awhile ago about a British ex-pat in Kenya, called "The Bolter". He is also mentioned a large veranda to sit out on. It sounded like the perfect place for a G & T or a campari and orange!
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