Saturday has arrived, and yes it is hot and sunny again. Not a cloud in the sky and a high of 42c. My first whole week in Mali is behind me and already I have got to grips with a few things, my PC is finally installed, and I have begun to make friends, which unsurprisingly in this context, is not difficult. Last night we went to a really great Ethiopian restaurant called Abissinia where I enjoyed my first glass of wine since I arrived and also ate with my hands for the first time, for an entire meal. Some food items were more challenging than others. Afterwards we went into the neighbouring bar called Appaloosa, which was quite a sight. The bar has attempted to recreate an American wild west saloon with limited success, needless to say it is very popular and the drinks menu is very extensive. Also of interest were the several buxom Ukrainian girls lined up behind the bar (now celebrating their new Russian identity), doing little work. It remains to be seen as to the exact circumstances surrounding their presence in Mali.
It was great to hang out with new friends and already I am coming into contact with an intriguing bunch of individuals. One girl I spoke to had worked for the UN for 11 years or so, in many contexts, and is now a United Nations Volunteer (UNV) here in Bamako. I was further surprised to find out that my colleague, who is our Public Relations Officer, is also a UNV and in fact has no background in communications at all! It explained why she was asking me for ideas on public information outreach activities in the remote Northern regions. Please drop me a line if you have any ideas yourselves!
Sat in Appaloosa last night I was reminded again of the oddities of expat life. People had warned me that the peacekeeping mission context creates a bit of bubble and looking around at some of the more "established" characters at the table, and listening to their stories, showed that it is clearly easy to get swept up by being the "privileged inhabitants" of an otherwise impoverished city and country. There was talk of the bars and nightclubs to hang out in, where to be seen, places where you can pick up a decent cocktail for $7. This amounts to more than some Malians will earn in three days.
A few things stood out for me during the day. As we left in the morning there had been an accident involving a car and a motorcyclist. Motorcycles are a favourite for getting around here in Bamako, the streets are clogged with with bikes at many points during the day. However, no one seems to wear helmets and this guy was laying flat out on the tarmac in the recovery position. It was unclear how seriously he was injured but it made me pretty determined not to drive here myself. I would be so worried about hitting someone. Many women will carry a young child on either side of them, again with no head protection at all. The amount of garbage on the street is also something you become very aware of and it make senses when you witness how people just throw stuff to the ground. I watched one lady come out of a shop yesterday and toss the can she was drinking from into the street. The taxi driver, who eventually got me to the restaurant last night, just tossed the drink container he was drinking from out of the window when he was finished. After a while maybe I will be doing the same! When I asked the office cleaner the other day about recycling she looked at me like an alien, she then went and fetched another colleague of hers who spoke more English. Needless to say, we did not get very far.
Today has in store a possible trip outside of the city, otherwise I think I should try the hotel pool in case I succeed in moving to outside accommodation sometime this week. Fingers crossed!
Saturday, 26 April 2014
Thursday, 24 April 2014
Day 7
I have been here in Bamako, Mali, for seven days now. It is great to be back in Africa. I have struggled to explain why, but it just is. Perhaps it is the more laid back pace, the friendliness of the people, the conversations. I come here in a different context to how I have been before. Previously it was about travel and exploration, this time it feels a hybrid of that and of work. I have been given some time to settle in, but I am sure once the work station is up and running (I am keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow), work will pick up. With the high temperatures, it has been 42c (108F) everyday, it is somewhat of a relief to return to air conditioned offices and hotel rooms.
This brings me to the Headquarters and my work. As you may, or may not know, I have come to Mali for what is known as temporary duty, a period of three months where I am released from my responsibilities in New York, my main duty station. The United Nations is here now in the form of the peacekeeping operation, MINUSMA (United Nations Multidimensional Integrated Stabilization Mission). The mission was established a year ago in response to an armed rebellion in the North of the country and a coup d'etat in the capital. This rebellion was subsequently quashed by the intervention of French troops and the UN is here now to maintain peace and hopefully bring more stability to the Northern region. The Headquarters, where I will be based, is housed in a large former hotel, which really makes for an unusual working environment. Yes, we have the usual lifts and corridors and eating areas, but what about the bathroom in each office, room service to your desk and a swimming pool and tennis courts outside. I get the impression Hotel L'Amitie was once grander than it was, though the gloomy and outdated interiors indicate that it was on the descent even before it was commandeered by the UN.
Traveling around the city the small amount that I have, reminds you, however, that Mali is still a very poor country. On the way to the logistics base yesterday to pick up office equipment, we passed through rubbish strewn streets, chickens packed into wired cages on the side of the road and drainage ditches and streams full of garbage. There is an uneasiness about the coexistence of the expat community and the local population that I need to explore more. On the one hand there is the feeling that the presence of the UN creates employment and ideally assists with capacity, but on the other hand there is the fact that prices are pushed up locally and that the UN will not be here permanently. To me, peacekeeping seems much like a business. It starts off small, gradually grows, before plateauing out and eventually folding, as it should.
Anyway, enough for tonight.
J.
This brings me to the Headquarters and my work. As you may, or may not know, I have come to Mali for what is known as temporary duty, a period of three months where I am released from my responsibilities in New York, my main duty station. The United Nations is here now in the form of the peacekeeping operation, MINUSMA (United Nations Multidimensional Integrated Stabilization Mission). The mission was established a year ago in response to an armed rebellion in the North of the country and a coup d'etat in the capital. This rebellion was subsequently quashed by the intervention of French troops and the UN is here now to maintain peace and hopefully bring more stability to the Northern region. The Headquarters, where I will be based, is housed in a large former hotel, which really makes for an unusual working environment. Yes, we have the usual lifts and corridors and eating areas, but what about the bathroom in each office, room service to your desk and a swimming pool and tennis courts outside. I get the impression Hotel L'Amitie was once grander than it was, though the gloomy and outdated interiors indicate that it was on the descent even before it was commandeered by the UN.
Traveling around the city the small amount that I have, reminds you, however, that Mali is still a very poor country. On the way to the logistics base yesterday to pick up office equipment, we passed through rubbish strewn streets, chickens packed into wired cages on the side of the road and drainage ditches and streams full of garbage. There is an uneasiness about the coexistence of the expat community and the local population that I need to explore more. On the one hand there is the feeling that the presence of the UN creates employment and ideally assists with capacity, but on the other hand there is the fact that prices are pushed up locally and that the UN will not be here permanently. To me, peacekeeping seems much like a business. It starts off small, gradually grows, before plateauing out and eventually folding, as it should.
Anyway, enough for tonight.
J.
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