I have been here in Bamako, Mali, for seven days now. It is great to be back in Africa. I have struggled to explain why, but it just is. Perhaps it is the more laid back pace, the friendliness of the people, the conversations. I come here in a different context to how I have been before. Previously it was about travel and exploration, this time it feels a hybrid of that and of work. I have been given some time to settle in, but I am sure once the work station is up and running (I am keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow), work will pick up. With the high temperatures, it has been 42c (108F) everyday, it is somewhat of a relief to return to air conditioned offices and hotel rooms.
This brings me to the Headquarters and my work. As you may, or may not know, I have come to Mali for what is known as temporary duty, a period of three months where I am released from my responsibilities in New York, my main duty station. The United Nations is here now in the form of the peacekeeping operation, MINUSMA (United Nations Multidimensional Integrated Stabilization Mission). The mission was established a year ago in response to an armed rebellion in the North of the country and a coup d'etat in the capital. This rebellion was subsequently quashed by the intervention of French troops and the UN is here now to maintain peace and hopefully bring more stability to the Northern region. The Headquarters, where I will be based, is housed in a large former hotel, which really makes for an unusual working environment. Yes, we have the usual lifts and corridors and eating areas, but what about the bathroom in each office, room service to your desk and a swimming pool and tennis courts outside. I get the impression Hotel L'Amitie was once grander than it was, though the gloomy and outdated interiors indicate that it was on the descent even before it was commandeered by the UN.
Traveling around the city the small amount that I have, reminds you, however, that Mali is still a very poor country. On the way to the logistics base yesterday to pick up office equipment, we passed through rubbish strewn streets, chickens packed into wired cages on the side of the road and drainage ditches and streams full of garbage. There is an uneasiness about the coexistence of the expat community and the local population that I need to explore more. On the one hand there is the feeling that the presence of the UN creates employment and ideally assists with capacity, but on the other hand there is the fact that prices are pushed up locally and that the UN will not be here permanently. To me, peacekeeping seems much like a business. It starts off small, gradually grows, before plateauing out and eventually folding, as it should.
Anyway, enough for tonight.
J.
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